Anne's Travel Journal

 

February 9, 1939 - City of Funchal, Madeira, Portugal

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We had heard tales of quaint, beautiful Madeira –if anything it surpassed our expectations.   The city [Funchal] is located on the south side of the island and extends up the mountain’s steep sides.  The white houses, with very small size tile roofs of red, cling bravely to the flower and shrub covered mountain – bougainvillea, bignonia, hibiscus, red, pink and white camellias, oleanders - all shades- bananas, candle pine trees at the top so thick you couldn’t see thru them.  Gorgeous, beautiful Funchal with its quaint ox carts, its flower women, the funny little policeman, multitudes of street vendors with embroidery, amber or bakelite trinkets, postcards, and  numerous wineries, where you can sample to your heart’s content – or your stomach’s limit.  There is the slow, but sure, cog railway to the top of the Mountain – 3,000 feet – and a very steep incline with entrances to odd little homes opening right on the tracks.  Small children, from 3 to 10 years, throw bouquets of camellias, violets and lilies in your lap, hoping for a few pennies.  Half way up, there is a stop and you get off the train for 20 minutes to walk up to the lovely little catholic “Church of the Mount,” where Carlos 5th of Austria –the emperor who was exiled at the end of the war - is buried.  He died in Madeira and could not return to his own country even for burial.  We walked up a very steep incline to the Church on rough cobble stone walks, and appreciate and respect the devout adherents of the faith when their church is so difficult to reach.  They had hammocks available for 35¢ which 2 men carried you in so that you could comfortably ride up the grade!   I was dying to try one, but no one else did.  We didn’t think it could be far, but we all wished we had gotten a hammock after all, for we were worn out before we got there.  We went back down to the cog railway train by a different route and continued on the train up to the Esplanade at the top of the Mountain.  There, we had the most marvelous view of the city and the harbor.  We could see our lovely Savoia anchored below and felt very safe and at home.  We had lunch there – very nice.  But I must go back to the beginning and tell of the tiny cobble stone streets and walks which extend all over the city.  In some places in the main part they are like beautiful mosaics laid in such perfect patterns.  The ox carts are sleds with runners!  They carry grease bags and the driver, who runs beside the cart, lays the bag down every little way so the runners of the sled go over it, and that makes it run smoother!  Well – you go up the Mountain on the railway, but you come down in a sled over a cobblestone path!  It is steep in places but the attendant is very expert in handling it and you never feel afraid – it is unique to Madeira and very thrilling.  Well, we shopped in the queer little shops offering bright bags.  I would love to have some of the linen, but I don’t know what I would do with it – we entertain so little at home.  We sat in the sidewalk café for a rest and a drink, and watched the brightly colored foreign scene until about time for the ship’s departure.  We looked up a Rotarian – Mr. _____ in a bank, and he was a charming gentleman – so courteous.  He told us about their meetings every Thursday, where they furnish their own programs, no outside talent being available.  They have 30 members.  It was such a nice climax to a lovely day.  We came back to our ship in tenders just as we had gone in, and watched the City fade into the night.  The happy diving boys called goodbye as we sailed away for Las Palmas and the Canary Islands.

P.S.

Paul thinks the scene at the sidewalk Café was the gayest he had ever seen.  The vendors in their white suits with baggy bloomers and tiny blue caps with little sticks of material like our beanie caps – a storekeeper said the caps were worn by everyone many years ago, but only a few wore them now and mostly for atmosphere.  But to go back to the sidewalk café – the gaily dressed flower women with huge baskets of flowers balanced on their heads, the funny little Portuguese policemen, the very importunate vendors,  gay native costumes and the insatiable tourists, and at the tables happy parties smoking and drinking – altogether it was a very colorful scene, like a setting for a movie.

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Anne and Paul were very taken with Madeira - and little wonder!  Madeira and Funchal, in particular, are a tourist's dream, with everything from historical and cultural sites, crafts and superb embroidery (an island specialty) to admire, beautiful gardens, fresh flowers to buy, gorgeous vistas with views of the lovely ocean, and pleasant weather almost most of the year.  Plus, the island even has its own special wine that you are urged to taste!  

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Madeira is an autonomous region of Portugal.  It is an archipelago, and Madeira island sits atop a volcano that rises 20,000 feet from the floor of the Atlantic Ocean.  The steam operated cog railway (the Monte Railway) Anne writes about carried passengers up to Terreiro da Luta, approximately 2,845 feet above the island.

Nowadays you rise up above the island in aerial tramways.  

One wonders if Anne would have felt as  safe

traveling up the mountain that way.  No 

matter how Terreiro da Luta is reached, it 

offers superb views and delightful restaurants.

Here is the menu for the lunch Anne and Paul

enjoyed:

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Anne may not have ridden up the incline in a hammock, but she had her photo taken sitting in one:

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Here is Anne, ready for her ride in the ox cart:

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Down by sled (note the bouquet of flowers in Anne's lap):

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Paul, enjoying the view from the café:

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One of the souvenirs Anne bought was a yarn doll dressed as a flower vendor to remind her of the colorful scene at the café.  I inherited the doll:

 

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Anne and Paul wound up their day by calling on a fellow-Rotarian. Paul's Rotary standing gave them an open invitation to Rotary Clubs and Rotarians in their various ports of call.  It must have been thrilling to be able to talk with a Madeiran gentleman after such a special day.

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Next time...onward to the Canary Islands (use the pull-down menu under 4, above)